While most fashion insiders were at Lincoln Center watching more elaborate runway shows on day three of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, I made a stop in Williamsburg to join Brooklyn fashionistas and hipsters for cocktails, ear- poppin’ music, a fast-paced runway show and an after-party for Marimacho’s NYFW debut.
Marimacho’s SS2014 Deep See collection truly was an under-the-sea affair. The runway, which was set up on the ground, was surrounded by blue, green and white ocean decor and lighting to reflect an underwater atmosphere. Designers Crystal and Ivette Gonzáles-Alé use the concept of identity and the ocean as their inspiration to create androgynous fashion.
According to Marimacho, inspiration struck based on a need in the industry for clothing not based on gender.
“We are not menswear. We are not womenswear. We are not all men. We are not all womyn… We are not expected. We exist in the negative space between identity and fashion.”
Marimacho’s mission to create genderless clothing was purposefully executed by incorporating masculine silhouettes for men and women underserved by mainstream menswear. Marimacho successfully blended an ocean theme into the collection without being too literal. Instead, a nautical color palette was implemented. The looks showcased non-traditional spring colors such as deep blue mixed with traditional spring colors with nautically-inspired names like coral, sea foam, sand, foam, shell, blue fin and algae. The garments consisted of harem pants, tuxedo shirts, vacation shirts, suits, shirt jackets, shorts, various tank tops and swim shorts. Silhouettes ranged from loose and comfy to fitted and tailored, in a variety of solid colors and striped designs. The lack of footwear not only emphasized the beachy-feel, but also the notion of androgynous fashion.
Inspiration: Cesar Ramirez, celebrity hairstylist, followed-through on the designers’ vision to embrace individuality. “I wanted to just really enhance everyone’s own full style. All of the models really do have their own personality and their own interesting style, so it was really about celebrating that.”
Steps and Products: Ramirez freshened up each look by first cleaning up haircuts for a more polished appearance. “I wanted everything really clean and fresh.” To seal the looks, high-shine Davines Artifixture Gel was used in addition to Davines Oi/Oil and Davines No. 11 Universal Instant Grip Glue.
“For each individual person, we added a splash of white in their hair,” he said. “So everyone has their own individual style, but that is the one common thread that brings the whole collection together.”
Ramirez revealed that he sees hair trends becoming more personal rather than everyone having the same long hair. He’s currently known for creating shape and style with shorter lengths. “Right now I think that’s kind of where hair is going.” There is also an assumption when it comes to going lighter with your hair in the summer, and darker in the winter, Ramirez says. “I don’t necessarily agree with that. I think it’s cool to play with the not-norm and maybe add color to hair just to bring it up a bit.” He also enjoys that girls can sport boy haircuts and vice versa.
Ramirez also shared two backstage pro tips. To create texture in a “fresh and modern” way, he recommends One Styling flat irons because they keep hair shiny and healthy. And “one of my tips for backstage is that I always, always have to have dry shampoo because you never know where the model is coming from.” Ramirez recommends cult-fave Psssssst Instant Spray Shampoo.
Inspiration: Karlo Karlo, key makeup artist, said as humans have evolved, eyebrows have been celebrated in both men and women. Because of that, brows were the common no-gender element emphasized for the show.
“The skin is all matte because the concept of the designer is that these human beings have evolved and their skin is flawless,” he said, adding that there was no contouring, blush or lipstick applied to the face. To reflect the underwater theme, greens, blues and fluorescent whites were applied to the eyelids. The eyes mimicked the “reflection of the sea” or the “reflection of scales on a fish.”
Steps and Products: To begin, Karlo used Emani’s Primer Serum followed by the Hydra Wear 12hr Foundation. The whole face was then set with loose powder for a matte finish. The brows were lined with a cream-based eye shadow. A strong line was drawn for the upper part of the brow, and the natural brow line was followed along the bottom.
“We’re not following what we have always heard,” Karlo said. The collection doesn’t use traditional spring pinks and so on. “Dressing up – it’s self-expression, so don’t limit yourself. You do wear white after Labor day after all.”
What do you think of Marimacho’s presentation and the message behind it?
I was thinking the same thing!
Great article!! Great shots too! Can’t believe this is only his debut runway show.
Ummmm, can you say #UNISEXXXY?? Where is Paul Christopher on this one?!
Love the idea of identity being boundary-less, particulary in fashion where we all wear our own uniforms whether we’re aware of it or not.